Fresh Tracks and Farmhouse Nights: A Mad River Glen Family Ski Weekend

Summary

We explored off-the-beaten track lodging at Vermont Bread and Breakfast at Russell Young Farm just 15 minutes over the Appalachain Gap from Mad River Glen and all the Valley and Bristol offers to adventuring families.

A winter getaway to the Mad River Valley doesn’t have to mean slopeside lodging. Our family recently discovered the perfect home base just over the Appalachian Gap in Bristol — the Vermont Bed and Breakfast at Russell Young Farm.

Only about 18 minutes from Mad River Glen, 27 minutes from Sugarbush Resort’s Mount Ellen base, and a half hour from Cochran’s, it’s an ideal location for families looking to explore multiple ski areas while enjoying a peaceful countryside retreat.

Vermont Bed and Breakfast at Russell Young Farm

The Vermont B&B sits only a mile or so off of Route 17, which will take you from Bristol to the Mad River Valley over the Appalachian Gap, but it feels far off the beaten path, surrounded by mountains and farmland. We stayed in the guest house just beyond the B&B and up a snowy hill, which was equipped to comfortably host two families or an extended family.

We were immediately welcomed by the presence of a fussball table, air hockey, and sauna in the garage, which checked boxes for everyone in the group! Inside, the home is cozy, well-appointed, and perfect for families, with the kids’ room and main bedroom upstairs. The view from our bedroom was also incredible, with the peak of Camel’s Hump, Vermont 3^rd highest mountain, showing off in the distance.

Downstairs the cozy living room with an easy gas-fed fireplace is perfect for snuggling up with a good book, or playing board games. We delved into a family game of Sorry each morning during breakfast at the dining table with views of the forest behind the house. The kitchen is also well equipped with all the necessary items needed for cooking your own meals.

Mad River Glen

After a delightful night’s rest at Russell Young Farm, we woke to fresh snow and chilling temperatures. That didn’t stop my kids from heading out to say hello to the sheep at the barn just a few feet from the house. After a woolly hello, we headed off over the App Gap to Mad River Glen for a day of skiing its legendary terrain.

Mad River has a special place in anyone’s heart who has skied it. Its vibe is no-nonsense, down-home, a bit worn, and full of soul. No pretense, just skiing. (Though lack of snowboarding does leave some folks out of the mix.) You experience that vibe from all angles – the lodge, the lifts, the terrain.

After gearing up, we made our way to the Sunnyside Double to access beginner terrain for the 5-year-old, Dash. Kicking off the day on “Fox Run,” named after Dash’s favorite animal was a good omen and put everyone in an agreeable mood. Even though Mad River’s slogan is “Ski it if you can!” there is still great terrain for all abilities, and one parent was able to snake off onto more advanced terrain with our older son and still all meet up at Sunnyside Chair.

The Sunnyside Double also affords you access to the Birdland Chair where the bulk of beginner skiing is found. True to Mad River Glen’s style, even the beginner terrain is windy with beautiful views. Plus, Stark’s Nest, the quaint warming hut, is at the base of this terrain and worth a stop to warm up, grab a snack or drink on the weekends, or use the loo! Waving to Sunnyside Double riders from the deck is also a highlight for the kids.

Pro Tip: Love to skip the crowds? Consider taking the kids out of school once a winter for a weekday ski. There is nothing like sharing the mountain and lodge with a small weekday warriors and having the slopes to yourself!

After a morning of family runs all together, it was time for lunch.

 

Stark’s Pub

While Stark’s Pub has been named one of the “best après ski bars,” it’s also a great spot for family lunch. Boasting hearty pub food, like sweet potato fries, local burgers that don’t skimp on the beef, grilled cheese on sourdough bread, and tried and true chicken fingers, it’s an easy menu for kids and parents alike. The great local beer list – featuring the Mad River Valley’s own Lawson’s Liquids – is also a plus for parents who imbibe.

If you’re lucky, you might time your arrival to snag one of the best seats in the house. On a lazy Friday, we were able to do just that and sidled up to the corner booth seats. Bookended by the toasty fireplace — where we could lay out our gear to dry and warm up — and giant picture windows looking out over the base area at the mountain, we ate and drank while watching skiers load the famed single chair.

Speaking of that, it was time for a first for my eldest son, who just turned 9.

 

The Single Chair

It’s a true coming-of-age benchmark — a kid’s first ride alone on the single chair at Mad River Glen. It’s only then they know they’ve made it to the level of elite skiers in Vermont.

Ok, so it’s not that dramatic, but I could feel the excitement and nervous energy coming off my son, Ollie, as we readied to load the single chair after lunch. Fueled and ready for a challenge, it was time to seek out Mad River’s advanced terrain. After a quick pep talk from Mom, Ollie overcame what little fear he had and loaded the iconic chair – one of the last of its kind.

Watching him turn around with a huge smile and two thumbs up immediately entered my “core memory” bank as a ski mom. Heading to the top, we bypassed the mid-station blaring our Grateful Dead tunes, and made our way to the summit.

Finally, at the top, we unloaded and dipped in and out of Mad River’s classic twisty, turny, never boring trails and in and out of the woods, finding powder stashes and snowy chutes. My adventurous son got the true Mad River experience he didn’t know he was missing, and I got to relish in the trails and glades that always tickle me pink when I ski here.

Swapping with my husband after a few runs, I was looking forward to warming up with hot cocoa in the lodge with Dash. I got nervous when I saw the cafeteria hot cocoa machine was down for the day, but remembered seeing someone order one at Stark’s Pub at lunch.I took the few steps over the bar and inquired with the bartender. When he said he could manage to whip something up for us, I couldn’t have been more relieved. When he topped it with extra whipped cream and said it was “on the house” I got teary with gratitude. It was the perfect way to end our day at Mad River Glen – with extreme kindness you only find in a community like this.

Eating and Exploring Bristol and the Mad River Valley

Bristol, Waitsfield, and Warren are all wonderful havens for families with great places to eat, play, and entertain. Here are a few we checked out, plus tips on more!

The Tillerman

Just 10 minutes down the road from our guest house, Tillerman Inn & Restaurant, hosts wonderful outdoor family events with music and food in the summer. It also serves as a cozy spot for dinner in the winter with roaring fires and a warm atmosphere.

We shared wood-fired pizza, appetizers, and drinks at the long parlor table by the fire. It’s a bit of a splurge for a family dinner, but the setting makes it memorable — and it would be perfect for a parents’ night out.

Big Picture Theater & Café

After skiing, we stopped by Big Picture Theater & Cafe, which recently reopened as a nonprofit community hub. On Friday nights, the theater transforms into a play space with crafts and activities for kids.

While the kids dove into the fun (with help from volunteers and Inklings Children’s Books), I slipped away to catch up with a friend at the bar — a perfect low-key post-ski stop.

Mad River Barn

Mad River Barn is an inn, restaurant, and event space just down the road from its namesake, Mad River Glen. The Pub at the Barn was just what we needed after a busy day. As soon as we got in, we were greeted by friendly staff, easily got a table, and the kids ran off to play with other kids at the shuffleboard table, living room-esque TV space, and fussball table.

Mom and Dad were able to take a breather and have a chat, while ordering kid-friendly food, like homemade mac’n’cheese and chicken fingers, plus and delicious bites for ourselves. I had the pomegranate and pear winter salad, plus tomato soup! The Barn has a great vibe all around and is so welcoming for families. The food and drink are top-notch, too, without blowing the bank.

More Mad River Valley Fun

• Sugarbush for more skiing and for the snowboarders in your life!
• The Collection, a classic toy store in Waitsfield
• Inkling’s Children’s Bookstore, a charming community hub for families with littles.
• The Warren Store, a classic Vermont country store with rustic charm and everything you could need.
• American Flatbread at Lareau Farm for a unique family-style experience and outdoor fire
• Lawson’s Finest Taproom for Vermont brews and great snacks for the kids, plus a lovely outdoor space
• Canteen Creemee for unique creemee combos, outrageuous add-ons, and killer fried chicken.
• Mad Taco for the best tacos in Vermont

A Quick Stop in Bristol

On the way home, we stopped at The Minifactory on Main Street — and it was a standout.

This bright café serves creative baked goods and breakfast bites. Our picks included Japanese milk bread with jam, buttermilk biscuits with honey, and biscuit sandwiches — every bite was excellent.

Also worth a stop: Holy Halvah for Vermont-made halvah and Bobcat Cafe & Brewery for dinner.

 

About Vermont B&B

On our last morning, I headed down the B&B to meet with host Carin and family. While the guest house was lovely, I had to check out the B&B itself. A renovated 1870 farmhouse, it was idyllic from the outside. Inside, it held the farmhouse vibe with a fresh feel.

Carin and family live at the B&B, and they were just wrapping up breakfast when we arrived. The B&B itself is even more warm and welcoming than the guesthouse since it’s part of the family’s home. It features 3 guest rooms, a cozy but bright living room with a huge fireplace, and long dining room table for hosting breakfast. Behind the scenes is a large kitchen where the magic happens. Magic like sugar-on-snow!

Carin surprised us with this oh-so-Vermonty treat on our way outside! If you haven’t tried it, it’s simply warm maple syrup on a bowl of snow, and it’s typical to eat it with a pickle. We savored it as she walked us around the property and showed off the new tiny house under construction, soon to be added to their rental lineup.

Departing the guest house and B&B later that morning, we waved at the family and dogs and took one last look at the amazing views surrounding this property.